Rebirth

December 11, 2009. It was an ending unlike other endings, with a series of unexpected events. There was so much happiness and general candidness. Dinner at Dozo with the PM team and endearingly the MIS boys. The early bomb of the night though, little P whom I thought was the baby of the MIS team was soon to be an accidental daddy and hence, married. Congratulations were in order. Before long, I was ushered to drinks and dancing at Ziga Zaga. Completely unbeknownst to us were the surprising presence of her majesty H and J at the door - they had dropped R off from their dinner. H and J were the last people any of us had expected to see. The fact that I had a minute's audience with H after lunch was already a minute too long. Poor W, caught alone at the entrance as they awaited my arrival. Some necessary chit chat eventually ended and we were finally dismissed. Inside, the group gathered strength and everyone seemed to be having a roaring good time. Some where in the middle we said goodbye to V and walked her out. As she left on the back of her boyfriend's motorbike a group entered the hotel. There were some camera flashes, some fans with pens and CD covers and bodyguards - three members of Guns N' Roses had arrived. T with drunken fervour asked for autographs. I soberly asked for hugs. With fairy dust dappled on us we headed back to the club. The night continued in great form. Drinks arrived on the house. Dancing dancing dancing. We were exuberant and having fun. Absolute darlings. Eventually the group diminished till there was only four, plus me. Lights were turned on. T was in no condition to go home less we were prepared to pay some massive cleaning fee to the cab driver so we decided to crash at the hotel instead. Drinks and cards till we couldn't keep awake any longer. It was finally dark and quiet and a few hours later, it was time to check out. We pretended lunch was a hang-over cure but it wasn't. Cab ride home at 2pm. I am at the front of my apartment building, ruined make-up, in last night's party clothes, holding a gigantic bunch of roses (a gift from the team). The finale* of a "lifetime" in Taiwan. The countdown begins again.

Baby Boy Dax

Dax arrived on Monday 26th October to become my brother and sister in law's very first child and also my first nephew. He is gorgeous and an absolute darling. Biased? Completely and utterly! How could anyone not love that chubby little face?


Second day home from the hospital.


One happy grandmother.

Sydney

Sydney is home. Its clear blue skies an allure that will never fade, the familiarity will never wane. Despite its constant face lifts. Sydney is my Sydney.

I went home two weeks ago to play bridesmaid to Clare's bride. Ravi, Clare's husband-to-be, has been known to me for almost the same amount of time as Clare. Amazingly, our friendships were forged on the dance floor. Hours and hours in night clubs in Sydney, weekends whiled away with music, sweat and laughter. So when one is called to duty, one accepts. With honor. And a little smirk too, at having always known I was right. But of course every thing associated with Clare and Ravi involves a small degree of personal risk. As much as they like to make fools of each other, they also like to make fools of you and two days before the wedding I am told to make a speech at the reception.

It was no demand but it was wrung with guilt: "You don't have to make a speech, we'll just ask them to take you off the list of speakers. It's just that you have so many stories to tell of the times we've shared." That last sentence sent a chill down my back. The Luddite has never been known to have a good memory and though I know I have true and treasured friendships I am already foggy of all of their details (I hasten to assure this does not desaturate the love I have for all my Near and Dears, and even the Far Aways).

In the end duty again prevails and I am still pen to paper at 4am the morning of the wedding, still trying to reconstruct some misty time, a darken place and muffled ringing in my ear to see Clare and Ravi again on the dance floor of our youths...

The day of the wedding arrives and the house is abound with nervous ladies, faces half-done, hair over-done and in all states of dress. Then photographers came and we hasten to shoot. Then it was time to scoot.

The procession from house to car to National Maritime Museum all led to a marriage ceremony on the decks of the HMAS Vampire. Neither of them or any of their relatives belong to the Navy. Clare and Ravi simply know how to do things with flare, but apparently I too, without intention. It was when we began our walk down the aisle toward the expectant and smiling guests. I followed Ravi's parents. They were able to avoid a small metal protrusion on the deck floor, what looked like a small hoop that ropes could be thread through, though I was oblivious to the fact concentrating as hard as I was to effect elegance and grace. I tripped on the thing and cantered at double time like a show jumping pony. To regain my composure and dignity I turned with class and yelled back to the bride "You betta watch this thing 'ere!". The rest of the evening proceeds unhindered.

When Clare and Ravi left for their one week honeymoon, they also left me the use of their car, a luxury convenience I've missed having (let's just say I wouldn't be The Luddite if I could afford it). A car means freedom, music and wind in your hair. It means the right to gripe at other people's driving and marvel at one's own parking. I was able to visit friends and relatives, run errands and the simple enjoyment at having control over my own transportation destiny.

I became reacquainted with the streets of Sydney, feeling an old familiarity rising. Every turn of the wheel led to a once frequented street and I marveled at the speed of change in the city. There is no doubt Sydney is a champion beauty, but it remains so even at such a dynamic rate. There is an appreciation of the harbour that is motivating the government's plans to move loading docks and cargo ships further south to Botany Bay. There is a general love of the good life in its people and a healthy sense of well being just to bask in its sun.

My trip home was purposeful, but even more significantly, my trip home gave me more than I realised I'd needed: a rejuvenated spirit and a greater love for my city, Sydney.

The Three Act Play

It was the Saturday after my birthday so I grabbed my best girl and we went drinking! It was always my intention to divide my birthday drinks into three though I almost thought the final act wasn't to take place. It had been a very stressful week and was additionally asked to do overtime for 6 hours on that Saturday. It was all very unpleasant. But thank god Kristen and I felt equally in need of letting our hair down after a very strange day in the office. All you need sometimes is just one good girlfriend who knows what's been going on and who's as ready to flush out work bullshit with alcohol as I was, if not more.

We went to a little basement bar where we'd been once before with a bunch of friends. We weren't sure what the vibe would be like. Luckily it was just what we were looking for. A quiet bar that night, but with a live band. The two waitresses that worked there remembered us from last time and gave us a couple free shots. One was their own making, which was an espresso flavoured vodka shot dropped into a glass of Guiness. They said something about it being a wake up call.

After the band finished for the night we chatted to them. The singer/guitarist was Taiwanese Aboriginal, the bass player and drummer were two Japanese guys who'd met in the US. They were a blues band. What an odd mix. But they were great.

My first of my three part 30th birthday celebrations in HK were just as I had expected. By the third part I had left it all to chance and accepted whatever befell me. Like I keep saying to myself and people around me, Taiwan has been a really strange experience and continues to do surprise me. A taste of what's to come in life in my 30s? Let's have it then.


L: What we saw when we left the bar. R: A reflection of the singer on glass.



Top left: Kristen and I. Top right: Japanese drummer and bass player from the band.
Bottom left: In the cab. Bottom right: At the lights.

Onwards and Upwards

It was a nail-biter to the end. The clock was counting down. Our meeting was delayed further and further into the twilight day. Half hour went by. Another half hour. And another. And we're still waiting. The room was then freed, but we experience technical difficulties. Ten more minutes. Then another ten. Anxiety intensifies. Only 50 minutes before the band goes on stage, and I am still at work preparing for a screening that will last exactly 49 minutes and 42 seconds.

The lights dimmed in the HD projection room. I gave up hopes of going out and seeing a band on the night of my actual 30th birthday, sitting there alone in that meat locker between the editor and the director. Afterwards we hashed out ideas for a tighter storyline which was very productive, but I couldn't help feel a little deflated.

It was just after 9pm. The night was still young. Off to the brewery we go!

Going to the brewery after work for a quick bite and beer with 5 co-workers in tow couldn't have been simpler or more effective. Too much food was ordered. But I couldn't resist all the dishes popular with Taiwanese people, being a Taiwanese person myself. 3-Cup Chicken, Drunken Prawns, fried tofu, octapus salad, duck blood and rice cakes. Just a few of the gourmet dishes we had.

Impromptu was the name of the game. I had expected to be drinking a beer listening to a UK band on tour in Taipei and picking up, but instead I was in a warehouse in a brewery having a great time, eating and drinking. Little did I know then, but someone at the table had bought a can of silly string for the occasion, and I was to be set upon by pink mucus on the way out. I loved it! The surprise attack was complete. I chased down the main perpetrator like we were a couple of school kids. Finally I panted my threats of keeling over.

So that ends the evening, or so I thought. Just to finish my weird and wonderful day, my cab driver who looked about 47, asked twice for my number during the ride home. So artfully he asked between in takes and chews on his beetle nut that I was fishing for the door handle before the cab came to a complete stop. And consequently, I left a pair of earrings I had received as a birthday present in the passenger seat.

I try not to be glum. I missed out on the band, but made it to the brewery. I got silly-stringed for the first time in my life. I got a lovely pair of earrings. Some dude asked for my number.

I look forward to Saturday night, when I'll be having my third and final round of birthday drinks to mark 3 decades in this Adventure.

The Never Ending Journey

Landed on Saturday at 1030am. The comfort and ease of catching the Airport Express into HK station was a great start to the trip. As the MTR traversed towards my destination, the clear blue sky and pillows of white clouds released me for the weekend. From HK station it was only a short ride to Yosy's place, but that cab ride continued to heighten my delight. Hong Kong is tall and modern, yet its narrow streets and hills make it a city of its own making and character.

Arriving at Yosy's new apartment building was like arriving at a boutique hotel. As I walked through its front door a man walked past. He was casually yet smartly dressed, wearing sunglasses and talking on his mobile phone. And gorgeous. I was liking Hong Kong so very much, and it was only the first hour.

Yosy and Ted lives on the 35th floor. The views from their apartment was amazing. Their apartment was equally impressive containing all mod-cons. Though not a huge place, it still boasted a kitchen that even Martha Stewart would be proud of. Which means I was positively drooling (they had a normal oven, a steam oven, dishwasher, 4 gas burners AND a built in grill).



I was reunited with Yos and Corrinne, two dear friends I had made in London. This was the first time we'd all been together in two years. Corrinne had moved back to Melbourne for a stint, then relented to her travel bug and Yos's current location at that time and the two lived and worked in Singapore. After Yos met Ted, the two married and moved to Hong Kong about a month ago. It was a perfect arrangement to spend my birthday in Hong Kong and have both Yosy and Corrinne to celebrate with me.

Lunch on Saturday was at a small, local claypot joint. Corrinne impressed us all with her fluent Cantonese and even ordered me a milk tea and coffee combo drink. Let's just say it was interesting. After lunch we made important visits, to Zara and H&M. Two clothing stores that are close to many women's hearts and quite obnoxiously not available in Taiwan. We like to pay our respects and homage to them.



A quick cool dessert of mango ice cream, fresh fruits and birds nest jelly refreshed us and we headed back to Yos's to ready ourselves for the main event: dinner at Aqua and drinks in Lan Kwai Fong.

I had chosen to dine at Aqua not because of its food, but purely for its location which boasted one of the finest views of Hong Kong. It was a short ferry ride from Hong Kong to Kowloon. From our private glassed room on the corner of the 29th floor restaurant overlooking the harbour, Hong Kong Island was lit up in candied-coloured lights. Its festive mood matched mine and I couldn't be happier with the setting and company. I had two additional friends join us for dinner, Kelvin who I'd first met in Toronto and Felix, a friend of Kelvin's I'd first met in Taipei last year who'd moved to China earlier this year. Three ex-colleagues would have been present also, if we hadn't miscommunicated and they hadn't changed their flights to arrive the week before! The girls were missed, both by myself and the boys I think.






Despite missing their presence, I had the good fortune of typhoons from two weeks ago delaying my friends' travels in Asia. Ant, an ex-colleague from London and his friend Louise are currently on a backpacking trip and circumstances aka natural disasters allowed us to all be in Hong Kong at the same time. Ant and Lou joined us for drinks afterwards in Lan Kwai Fong, possibly one of the rowdiest drinking arenas I'd ever been. It reminded me of Temple Bar in Dublin. Small narrow streets with pub after pub after bar after pub. And plenty of white folk which enforced that idea.



We first went into the Russian ice bar for a shot of vodka each, then it was followed by jellied shots from Australian bar. Later in the evening, as we stood on the street, a man approached us with a box and offered us its contents. We peered in and saw giant novelty syringes. Curious. The syringes were filled with a burnt yellow/orange colouration. Definitely curious. The man then enthusiastically explained they jellied shots and that these were on the house. We laughed thankfully and all grabbed a syringe each. Beside us were a group of people attending a pyjama party. In their pyjamas. Further down the street were girls dousing each other with beer. And the last memory of the crowd of the night was seeing famous a Hong Kong radio DJ wearing a black T shirt and black leather skirt and boots (he is a man), walking with three women linked to his arms. He only has two arms.




Corrinne and I walked back to Yosy's place at the end of the night. It wasn't a far walk, but our heels were giving us great grief. Ending the night in a comfortable bed on the 35th floor of central Hong Kong took the grief away in a jiffy.

Sunday lunch was a late affair. But we'd kept to our plans of eating the famous roast goose at Yung Kee, famous for, well, its roast goose. It's roast goose cooked in the same way as Peking Duck, though the meat tasted far more tender, the flavours were rich without being overly powering, and the plum sauce to dip into was superb. I also ate salted pork and preserved egg congee which is a Hong Kong staple and it was just as tasty as I'd expected it to.



After lunch we strolled around Hong Kong a little bit more and embarked on the travelators that go on forever. This is the world's longest outdoor escalator, officially known as the Central-Mid-Levels Escalators. Mid-Levels is an area that boasts higher rent for its elevation and views, and we passed an open inspection of a residential building on our way up. The queues for this viewing was large to say the least, it was as if it were a queue for tickets to a concert or night club. It reminds you of how little land/housing there is in Hong Kong and that they are actively filling in the harbour to make more land. Eventually, one of our cab drivers told us, Hong Kong and Kowloon will be connected by landfill roads. Not bridges and ferries.



We stopped for an egg-tart break once we had enough of the escalators and jealousy of the rich in Hong Kong that lived in this area. It was time to head back. At Yosy's, we relived our night and days in Hong Kong over champagne the boys had bought for me the night before. The girls also presented me with a pair of beautiful earrings from Bali as a birthday present. Corrinne and I then said goodbye to Ted and Yos and their newly wedded bliss and we made our way back to the airport from whence we came.

At the airport I said goodbye to Corrinne who was returning to Singapore. I was to return to Taipei. It was a perfect weekend but I was sad to be leaving behind friends. Yet again.



Hong Kong. The world's Chinatown.

Aqua
29th Floor, One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Hong Kong

Some Snippets

A selection of photos from the last two weeks - dinner at Taiwan Beer Brewery 346 Warehouse Restaurant, Naomi's hotpot birthday, dancing at Primo, drinks at 2046. Addresses below.









Some highlights included meeting up with James, a backpacker I'd met two years ago in Sarajevo who'd recently arrived in town to learn Chinese; my best friend Mel visiting; Naomi falling asleep at 2046 after too many drinks, but still managed to smile for a picture; Sharon's sexy outfit that converted from dinner wear to clubbing wear by the removal of pants; the eggs.

VENUES
Taiwan Beer Brewery 346 Warehouse Restaurant
No. 85, Sec. 2, Bade Road, Tapei
(Cnr Bade Road & Jienguo South Road)

台北市八德路二段85號(八德路&建國南路交叉口)
Tel: (02) 2509-8346

Primo
2F, No. 297, Sec. 5, Zhongxiao East Road, Taipei
台北市忠孝東路五段297號2樓
Tel: (02) 2760-5885

2046
No. 24, Lane 205, Sec. 4, Zhongxiao East Road, Taipei
台北市忠孝東路四段205巷24
Tel: (02) 2711-5589